Thursday, August 4, 2011

Is Your Bike Ready for Pierre's Hole?

My 2011 Fox F29 has been feeling a little "notch-ee" and I have noticed some sludge-like grime accumulating on the stanchions so I decided to show it some love. I have done a few fork seal replacements now so this was not a huge project at all. I can't believe what a difference it made. In addition to fresh Fox Fluid, I installed Enduro Fork Seals which have never let me down. Typically a fork seal replacement is preceded by the tell-tale oozing of oil down the fork leg but this time my fork simply felt like poo.

Slide the lowers off and wipe down those stanchions

I have never had an Enduro Seal leak on me

The blue Enduro fork seals even match the Fox logo. Sweet.

Pierre's Hole is going to be awesome! Get your bike ready and I'll see you Saturday.


Vito said...

I really love that spotless clean, well organized garage you have going there:)

Hamilton said...

I love it. When many would just bash their crappy piece of equipment, sell it on eBay, and spew vitriol in the direction of Fox forevermore; you, on the other hand, fix the durn thing and get on with it. Well done amigo!

eric said...

hey, dave: love your blog.

when you removed the lowers, did you have to remove the dials on crown? i recently changed the spring-side oil on a talas FIT RLC (it shipped nearly dry--what a huge difference adding the proper amount of oil makes), but i could not get the damper side to release. (i know fox forks vary, but mine has the rebound knob on the spring side and the regular nut on the other side with the adjuster that controls compression, lockout, etc.)

also, fox has finally recognized the weakness of their seals & as of 2012 models they put SKF seals as stock. you can also buy SKF seals direct from fox. worth a try the next time you're changing seals. enduros are great; there are many reasons to consider SKF as an alternative.


eric said...

just to clarify: in your first pic i clearly see that you had to remove the dial from one side (looker's right in your photo)...but did you need to loosen things with a 26mm socket?

i know the spring side and damper side vary between models, but it looks like the damper side is looker's left.

did you have to deliver any impact (plastic hammer or mallet) to release the lowers? just couldn't get mine to release, despite having both lower nuts removed and the top dial--but i didn't have a 26mm socket, so that's the one thing i didn't loosen.


Dave said...

Eric, I did not have to remove either of the big nuts on the crown to remove the lowers. However, it is tricky to get them to release.
The trick is to remove the 10mm from the rebound side, turn the nut upside down and re-thread it part of the way back onto the threads so that the nut protects the rebound pin from the impact with the hammer. Tap the 10mm with the hammer to release the lower.

eric said...

thanks, dave. i tried that trick of putting that nut back on and tapping -- but maybe i was too conservative. how hard did you tap? was very light force all that was needed, or something more moderate? did you tap when the fork was clamped right-side-up in the stand?

i tapped lightly, but the fork was also upside-down at the time.

many thanks! otherwise, adding oil and service a shock is of those things that seems intimidating (like bleeding brakes) but just takes a short while after that initial time.

thanks for the confirm that the 26mm socket isn't needed!

Dave Byers said...

Eric - Don't forget to let all of the air out of the air spring. It takes pretty whack with a metal hammer to get it to release. Just make sure the 10mm nut is protecting the rebound adjust pin and you really can't hurt anything.

eric said...

cool--thanks for the confirm. i'd let all the air out, but i probably was a little too light with the mallet. i'll get after it this week. many thanks, and congrats on your race!